{"id":3573,"date":"2023-10-02T18:15:05","date_gmt":"2023-10-02T18:15:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/?page_id=3573"},"modified":"2023-10-02T18:20:53","modified_gmt":"2023-10-02T18:20:53","slug":"garum-and-wine","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/garum-and-wine\/","title":{"rendered":"Garum and wine"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-page\" data-elementor-id=\"3573\" class=\"elementor elementor-3573\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-1c6e7dc elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"1c6e7dc\" data-element_type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-cdfedd7\" data-id=\"cdfedd7\" data-element_type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-b0addf2 elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"b0addf2\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t<style>\/*! elementor - v3.20.0 - 26-03-2024 *\/\n.elementor-heading-title{padding:0;margin:0;line-height:1}.elementor-widget-heading .elementor-heading-title[class*=elementor-size-]>a{color:inherit;font-size:inherit;line-height:inherit}.elementor-widget-heading .elementor-heading-title.elementor-size-small{font-size:15px}.elementor-widget-heading .elementor-heading-title.elementor-size-medium{font-size:19px}.elementor-widget-heading .elementor-heading-title.elementor-size-large{font-size:29px}.elementor-widget-heading .elementor-heading-title.elementor-size-xl{font-size:39px}.elementor-widget-heading .elementor-heading-title.elementor-size-xxl{font-size:59px}<\/style><h2 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Garum and wine<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-8bc00e0 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"8bc00e0\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t<style>\/*! elementor - v3.20.0 - 26-03-2024 *\/\n.elementor-widget-text-editor.elementor-drop-cap-view-stacked .elementor-drop-cap{background-color:#69727d;color:#fff}.elementor-widget-text-editor.elementor-drop-cap-view-framed .elementor-drop-cap{color:#69727d;border:3px solid;background-color:transparent}.elementor-widget-text-editor:not(.elementor-drop-cap-view-default) .elementor-drop-cap{margin-top:8px}.elementor-widget-text-editor:not(.elementor-drop-cap-view-default) .elementor-drop-cap-letter{width:1em;height:1em}.elementor-widget-text-editor .elementor-drop-cap{float:left;text-align:center;line-height:1;font-size:50px}.elementor-widget-text-editor .elementor-drop-cap-letter{display:inline-block}<\/style>\t\t\t\t<p>Martin-Kilcher (2011, 420-21) refers to the description by Pliny (NH 31, 44, 95; 36, 95) of the drinking of <em>garum<\/em> (\u2018The same, too, with <em>garum<\/em>, which is now prepared in imitation of the colour of old honied wine, and so pleasantly flavoured as to admit of being taken as a drink\u2019). And then to \u2018drinks and remedies\u2019 based on <em>oenogarum<\/em> (mixed with wine) and <em>hydrogarum<\/em> (diluted with water) (with reference to Curtis 1991, Index, mixed sauces, pp. 221-222).<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Martin-Kilcher then goes on to discuss the presence of <em>tituli picti<\/em> on Baetican amphorae (Dr 7 and 9, 10?) referring to <em>Lymp<\/em>(<em>hatum<\/em>), or <em>Lump<\/em> ( ) as garum mixed with wine or water. A Dr 7\/Panella Pompeii VII found in Pisa bears the dipinto <em>vin<\/em>(<em>atum <\/em>\/<em>ata<\/em>) <em>Lump<\/em>( ), which Martin-Kilcher interpreted as possible evidence for the shipment in this amphora of such a drink. In two separate cases, Baetican amphorae (Dr 7 and Dr 9) with the dipinto <em>Lump<\/em>( ) were found with grape remains stuck to the pitch lining. The placement of fish amphorae (rather than the usual wine amphorae) in aristocratic tombs in Gaul and Britain was also interpreted as possible evidence for garum mixed with wine.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Reading Apicius,<em> oenogarum<\/em>\u00a0 (\u03bf\u03b9\u03bd\u03bf\u03b3\u03b1\u03c1\u03bf\u03bd), heliogarum-\u03b5\u03bb\u03b1\u03b9\u03bf\u03b3\u03b1\u03c1\u03bf\u03bd and hydrogarum-\u03c5\u03b4\u03c1\u03bf\u03b3\u03b1\u03c1\u03bf\u03bd were prepared by the cook by mixing <em>garum<\/em> with wine, oil, or water, respectively, together with spices, ground together in <em>mortaria<\/em>, as Apicius states in some recipes (e.g. I.XVII.1-2), to be poured over or to accompany already cooked dishes. Galen also describes the mixing of oil or vinegar and <em>garos<\/em> into a type of dressing (Grainger 2014: see also Cramp 2008, for residue analyses of <em>mortaria<\/em> in Britain; Curtis 1991, 8, note 12; 35, 138, note 131; 146; 189, note 20). St. Pachomius when ill was given <em>vinum et liquamen<\/em> in his Egyptian monastery in the 4th century (Ibid. 8, note 12). For the late Roman period, Ausonius of Bordeaux, writing after his retirement to his rural estate on the Garonne (c. 383-395) uses his expensive <em>garum<\/em> to pour over already cooked foods, such an egg-based <em>patina<\/em> or dish of mullets, in this case with the <em>garum sociorum<\/em> of Carthago Nova, made from mullet viscera (Grainger 2014, 5). Here we may notethe archaeologically attested 4th century and later production of <em>salsamenta<\/em> and associated thin, narrow <em>spatheia<\/em> at Aguilas (Ramallo 1984) and the recently studied amphora production, including imitations of the Tunisian type Keay 25\/Bonifay Africana III, at El Moj\u00f3n (Cartagena) (Quevedo S\u00e1nchez and Berrocal Caporr\u00f3s 2022).<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>For Grainger, there were always two classes of fish sauce. <em>Garum<\/em>, including <em>oenogarum<\/em>, was the more expensive black-coloured liquid made from fish viscera and blood, not the cheaper <em>liquamen<\/em> made from whole fish. It is the latter which appears in the majority of Apicius\u2019s recipes and was meant to be used as a cooking ingredient. <em>Garum<\/em>, with two exceptions, only appears in Apicius as part of the compound word <em>oenogarum<\/em>: once for a recipe (7.13.1: mushrooms with garum and pepper) and once, as a medicine (I.32) (Grainger 2014, 4, 6).<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Whereas <em>garum<\/em> was traded in various sizes of small one-handled jugs for the use at the table (e.g. the Pompeian <em>urcei<\/em> of Aulus Umbricius Scaurus), <em>liquamen<\/em> and its derivatives (<em>flos<\/em>, <em>allec<\/em>) were exported in much larger quantities, in amphorae, with dipintos also carefully describing the contents, including ageing (which improved the quality).\u00a0 And there were many grades of both types, as distinguished in Diocletian\u2019s Price Edict. She also argues here that the text of Apicius, in \u2018vulgar\u2019 Latin, need not have been a late Roman text, as this was the norm for lower status writers, such as the cook assistant who she believes compiled these recipes (i.e. they were not written down by Apicius himself and date to the 1st century).<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>So, it is not clear if these mixed products could be bought ready-made (imported in amphorae; or <em>urcei<\/em>: Piqu\u00e8s et al 2021), despite the reference by Martin-Kilcher already noted with respect to <em>lymphatum<\/em>. For Curtis (1991, 164-165, note 25), \u2018No extant <em>titulus pictus<\/em> refers to a mixed garum, not even oenogarum.\u2019<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Finally, the adding of oregano to <em>garum<\/em> is noted in the <em>Geoponica<\/em> (20.46.3-4) and recent analyses of Spanish amphorae have confirmed that they contained fish, flavoured with a wide range of such condiments (<em>Proyecto GARUM<\/em>, directed by Dar\u00edo Bernal-Casasola; see also Bernal-Casasola, D. et al. 2021; Rodr\u00edguez-Alc\u00e1ntara et al 2021).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-c0a0392 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"c0a0392\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-f4fefc2\" data-id=\"f4fefc2\" data-element_type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-9945412 elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"9945412\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t<h2 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default\">Bibliography<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c4b5f70 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"c4b5f70\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Bernal-Casasola, D., Cottica, D., Marlasca, R., Rodr\u00edguez Santana, C.G. and Garc\u00eda Vargas, E. 2021, \u2018Dressel 21-22 Italic amphorae for fish: the archaeozoological confirmation from the garum shop at Pompeii\u2019. In D. Bernal-Casasola, M. Bonifay, A. Pecci and V. Leitch (eds.), <em>Roman Amphora Contents. Reflecting on the Maritime Trade of Foodstuffs in Antiquity<\/em>, RLAMP 17, Oxford (Archaeopress): 437\u2013452.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Cramp, L.J.E. 2008. <em>Foodways and Identity: Organic residue analysis of Roman mortaria and other pottery<\/em>, PhD Thesis, University of Reading.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Curtis, R.I. 1991. <em>Garum and salsamenta. Production and commerce in materia medica<\/em>. (Studies in Ancient Medicine 3). Leiden and New York.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Grainger, S. 2014. \u2018<em>Garum<\/em>, <em>liquamen<\/em> and <em>muria<\/em>: a new approach to the problem of definition\u2019, in E. Botte and V. Leitch (eds.), <em>Fish &amp; Ships. <\/em><em>Production et commerce des <\/em>salsamenta<em> durant l\u2019Antiquit\u00e9. Actes de l\u2019atelier doctoral, Rome 18-22 juin 2012<\/em>, Biblioth\u00e8que d\u2019Arch\u00e9ologie M\u00e9diterran\u00e9enne et Africaine 17, Arles-Aix-en-Provence: 37-45.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Martin-Kilcher, S. 2011. \u2018Formes d\u2019amphores et contenus au Haut-Empire, points de rep\u00e8re et questions\u2019, in <em>SFECAG, Actes du Congr\u00e8s d\u2019Arles<\/em>, Marseille: 417\u2013426.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Quevedo S\u00e1nchez, A. and Berrocal Caporr\u00f3s, M.C. 2022. \u2018La figlina de El Moj\u00f3n (Cartagena). Estratigraf\u00eda y producci\u00f3n cer\u00e1mica\u2019. In <em>Cer\u00e1mica\u00a0 en Hispania (siglos II a VII d. C.). Contextos estratigr\u00e1ficos entre el Atl\u00e1ntico y el Mediterr\u00e1neo<\/em>, Ex Officina Hispana: Cuadernos de la SECAH 5: 71-94.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Ramallo Asensio, S.F. 1984. \u2018Algunas consideraciones sobre el Bajo Imperio en el litoral murciano: Los hallazgos romanos en Aguilas\u2019, <em>Anales de la Universidad de Murcia<\/em>, 42 (3\u20114) (Curso 1983\u20111984): 97\u2011127.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>Rodrigo-Alc\u00e1ntara, \u00c1, Rold\u00e1n-G\u00f3mez, A., Garc\u00eda-Vargas, E., Bernal-Casasola, D. and Palacios-Mac\u00edas, V.M. 2021. \u2018Making Garum. Experimental archaeology methods\u2019. In D. Bernal-Casasola, M. Bonifay, A. Pecci and V. Leitch (eds.), <em>Roman Amphora Contents. Reflecting on the Maritime Trade of Foodstuffs in Antiquity<\/em>, RLAMP 17, Oxford (Archaeopress): 171-177.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Garum and wine Martin-Kilcher (2011, 420-21) refers to the description by Pliny (NH 31, 44, 95; 36, 95) of the drinking of garum (\u2018The same, too, with garum, which is &hellip;<\/p>\n<p class=\"read-more\"> <a class=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/garum-and-wine\/\"> <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Garum and wine<\/span> Read More &raquo;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"no-sidebar","site-content-layout":"page-builder","ast-site-content-layout":"","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"disabled","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"disabled","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-3573","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3573","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3573"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3573\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3584,"href":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3573\/revisions\/3584"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ub.edu\/racamed\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3573"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}